CadSoft EAGLE Ultimate 7.7.0 – x86 Full Version (PCB Design)

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Absent soldermask on the bottom side of the board. Holes 45 Non-conducting not a via or pad holes. These are usually drill holes for stand-offs or for special part requirements. Just for reference. This might show the outline of a part, or other useful information.
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Absent soldermask on the bottom side of the board. Holes 45 Non-conducting not a via or pad holes. These are usually drill holes for stand-offs or for special part requirements. Just for reference. This might show the outline of a part, or other useful information. To turn any layer off or on, click the “Layer Settings Before you start routing, make sure the layers above aside from tStop and bStop are visible.

Selecting From Overlapping Objects Here’s one last tip before we get to laying our board out. This is an interface trick that trips a lot of people up. Since the board view is entirely two-dimensional, and different layers are bound to overlap, sometimes you have to do some finagling to select an object when there are others on top of it. Normally, you use the mouse’s left-click to select an object whether it’s a trace, via, part, etc. In cases like that, EAGLE will pick one of the two overlapping objects, and ask if that’s the one you want.

If it is, you have to left-click again to confirm. If you were trying to grab one of the other overlapping objects, right-click to cycle to the next part. EAGLE’s status box, in the very bottom-left of the window, provides some helpful information when you’re trying to select a part. For example: We right-click to cycle, and it asks us instead if we’d like to select Reset. Right-clicking again cycles back to VCC, and a final left-click selects that as the net we want to move.

Enough pointers, let’s lay out a PCB! The new board file should show all of the parts from your schematic. The gold lines, called airwires, connect between pins and reflect the net connections you made on the schematic. There should also be a faint, light-gray outline of a board dimension to the right of all of the parts.

Our first job in this PCB layout will be arranging the parts, and then minimizing the area of our PCB dimension outline. PCB costs are usually related to the board size, so a smaller board is a cheaper board. Understanding the Grid In the schematic editor we never even looked at the grid, but in the board editor it becomes much more important. The grid should be visible in the board editor. You can adjust the granularity of the grid, by clicking on the GRID icon If you need finer control, hold down ALT on your keyboard to access the alternate grid, which is defined in the Alt box.

While you’re moving parts, you can rotate them by either right-clicking or changing the angle in the drop-down box near the top. The way you arrange your parts has a huge impact on how easy or hard the next step will be.

As you’re moving, rotating, and placing parts, there are some factors you should take into consideration: Don’t overlap parts: All of your components need some space to breathe. The green via holes need a good amount of clearance between them too. Remember those green rings are exposed copper on both sides of the board, if copper overlaps, streams will cross and short circuits will happen. Minimize intersecting airwires: While you move parts, notice how the airwires move with them.

Limiting criss-crossing airwires as much as you can will make routing much easier in the long run. Part placement requirements: Some parts may require special consideration during placement. For example, you’ll probably want the insertion point of the barrel jack connector to be facing the edge of the board. And make sure that decoupling capacitor is nice and close to the IC.

Tighter placement means a smaller and cheaper board, but it also makes routing harder. Below is an example of how you might lay out your board while considering those factors. We’ve minimized airwire intersections by cleverly placing the LEDs and their current-limiting resistors.

Some parts are placed where they just have to go the barrel jack, and decoupling capacitor. And the layout is relatively tight. The tNames layer which isn’t visible by default was turned on to help identify which part is which.

Adjusting the Dimension Layer Now that the parts are placed, we’re starting to get a better idea of how the board will look. Now we just need to fix our dimension outline. You can either move the dimensions lines that are already there, or just start from scratch. Then use the WIRE tool — — to draw a new outline. Before you draw anything though, go up to the options bar and set the layer to 20 Dimension. Also up there, you may want to turn down the width a bit we usually set it to 0.

Then, starting at the origin, draw a box around your parts. Don’t intersect the dimension layer with any holes, or they’ll be cut off! Make sure you end where you started. That’s a fine start. With the parts laid out, and the dimension adjusted, we’re ready to start routing some copper! Routing the Board Routing is the most fun part of this entire process. It’s like solving a puzzle! Our job will be turning each of those gold airwires into top or bottom copper traces.

At the same time, you also have to make sure not to overlap two different signals. After selecting the tool, there are a few options to consider on the toolbar above: On a 2-layer board like this, you’ll have to choose whether you want to start routing on the top 1 or bottom 16 layer. Bend Style: This defines how wide your copper will be. Usually 0. You shouldn’t go any smaller than 0. Wider traces can allow for more current to safely pass through. If you need to supply 1A through a trace, it’d need to be much wider to find out how much, exactly, use a trace width calculator.

Via Options: You can also set a few via characteristics here. The shape, diameter, and drill can be set, but usually the defaults round, auto, and 0. With those all set, you start a route by left-clicking on a pin where a airwire terminates.

The airwire, and connected pins will “glow”, and a red or blue line will start on the pin. You finish the trace by left-clicking again on top of the other pin the airwire connects to. Between the pins, you can left-click as much as you need to “glue” a trace down. While routing it’s important to avoid two cases of overlap: Remember that all of these copper traces are basically bare wire.

If two signals overlap, they’ll short out, and neither will do what it’s supposed to. If traces do cross each other, make sure they do so on opposite sides of the board. It’s perfectly acceptable for a trace on the top side to intersect with one on the bottom. That’s why there are two layers! If you need more precise control over your routes, you can hold down the ALT key on your keyboard to access the alternate grid. By default, this is set to be a much more fine 0. Placing Vias Vias are really tiny drill holes that are filled with copper.

We use them mid-route to move a trace from one side of the board to the other. To place a via mid-route, first left-click in the black ether between pins to “glue” your trace down.

Then you can either change the layer manually in the options bar up top, or click your middle mouse button to swap sides. And continue routing to your destination. EAGLE will automatically add a via for you. Route Clearance Make sure you leave enough space between two different signal traces.

PCB fabricators should have clearly defied minimum widths that they’ll allow between traces — probably around 0. As a good rule-of-thumb, if you don’t have enough space between two traces to fit another not saying you should , they’re too close together.

This tool turns routed traces back into airwires. Route Away! That’s about all the simple rules there are. Go have the time of your life solving the routing puzzle!

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